January 03, 2003 Koh Pha Ngan, Thailand
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The pier was packed with farangs waiting for their boats. Everyone must be leaving after the New Years festivities. After my shitty bungalow on Koh Tau, I was going to ignore the touts and find a place on my own, but there were no touts. According to people I had talked to there are lots of secluded beaches here, perfect for a romantic get away. But since I'm traveling alone I wanted to be close to the action, so I took a taxi to Haad Rin Nok, the main party beach and site of the Full Moon parties. What a shithole. The "town" consists entirely of travel agent/currency exchange/internet cafes shops, convenience stores, and the generic resort restaurants that all serve the same weird mix of Thai, Chinese, Italian, Mexican, and Israeli food. After wandering around for awhile looking at the shitty bungalows I could get for 300 Baht, I wandered up the hilly road going out of town, and stumbled upon the Hua Laem resort. This place is exactly what I've been looking for. My clean bungalow is up on a cliff overlooking the waves crashing on the rocks below. It's peaceful and secluded and has friendly Thai proprietor, unlike the jaded Thais of Koh Tau. And a 15 minute walk through the jungle takes me to the Haad Rin. And it's only 250 Baht a night, or $6, the same price I paid on Koh Tau.
After moving in I went to check out the beach, and was pretty disappointed. It looks like the tide comes in during the day, so it's mostly underwater. Worst of all is that the tide brings in all kinds of crap, so the beach is littered with leaves, sticks, and bottles. Not having the energy to go elsewhere I planted myself there. Little Thai ladies covered from head to toe in hats, sunglasses, long-shirts, and trousers (I dub them the beach ladies) come by from time to time touting massages. I know what you're thinking, but Thai massage is a legitimate form of massage, and a full body one only costs $5, so I agreed. If you're accustomed to Swedish massages, what we normally associate with the term "massage," a Thai massage can be a rude awakening, since they sit on you and bend you in to strange positions to crack your joints. If you know what you're getting in to it's not so bad, though.