February 13, 2003 Pyin U Lwin, Myanmar
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After changing a Benjamin in a secret back room of a store, I went to Mandalay Central “Bus” Station to catch a pickup to the old British Hill Station of Pyin U Lwin. A woman came up and tried to get me to take a taxi for $2.50. First I had to convince her I actually wanted to take a pickup, then insist on it when she said “no bus.” Finally she directed me to a guy who said $1 for the back, $1.50 for the front. A total rip-off, but he wouldn’t budge at all, so I paid for a seat up front so I could enjoy the view. Then I got on the dirty old truck and waited for it to fill up, since they only leave when full. When the driver started the engine it sounded like it barely ran, and indeed it stalled several times. We stopped for some spare parts before leaving town. Before going up the hills we stopped to refill the radiator, and again halfway up. The woman next to me gave me some apples. Burmes people keep giving me food.
Pyin U Lwin is interesting, with some old colonial buildings and little horse drawn carriages, like mini-stagecoaches. I took one to the base of a hill with a paya, and climbed up for a view of town. The ride itself was the highlight, and it was fun waving at the surprised staring people, who then waved back.

