Pyin U Lwin

I rented a bike for 60 cents to ride to a waterfall. I was more interested in the Shan villages along the way. Unfortunately, nobody was able to give me clear directions to either the villages, or the waterfall, so I never found them. Despite this, the ride was good, with lots of people waving and saying “hello.” They really get a kick when I say “hello” back to them. I ended up at a big gold paya on top of a hill (are you seeing a pattern?), that was well-maintained and had quite a few pillgrims. There are so many paya that most are in pretty sorry state, with peeling paint, broken statues, and weeds. It seems that the more popular ones are kept in good condition from the money the pilgrims donate. The place was quite peaceful, so I sat in a garden and ate one of the “danger apples” the woman from the bus gave me yesterday, much to the amusement of some passing people.

Back in town I went shoe-shopping at the central market. My Teva sandals are impractical here, since I have to take them off and put them on so much. Also, it would be good to have something to wear in the dirty bathrooms; the one at my guesthouse is particularly appalling. I won’t be showering while I’m here because of it. I bought some flip-flops, the National Shoe of Myanmar, for $1. I chatted with the vendor for awhile. After he asked my job, a common question, to which I vaguely answer “computers,” he said he had a degree in physics. I don’t know if he said this to impress me, but it’s probable, since there are no jobs for physicists, or for any type of college-educated person in Myanmar.

Since it was so cold and rainy out, I went for tea and nan bread at an Indian tea shop. A friendly guy I had trouble understanding chatted with me. Almost immediately he started talking about how great Aung San Suu Kyi, the leader of the NLD opposition to the junta, was, and how the junta would fall soon. I’d love to talk politics with a Burmese person, but not in a tea shop, where we’d be overheard. I also wary about someone who brings it up right away. Could he have been working for military intelligence trying to feel out “problem tourists?” If you think this is ridiculous, I urge you to read “Welcome to Burma.”

After the political intrigue, I wandered around looking for a busy restaurant. It seems if I use the Lonely Planet to find a place it will be packed with tourists. So I picked a place with no English sign, but they had an English menu. It was a Bamar (Burmese) place, and the menu actually called the curries “oil curries.” A quick bit of research told me the layer of oil is used to protect the food, which sits out, cold, for hours, from the flies that infest the restaurants and teashops. You’re not expected to eat all the oil. I ordered a mutton oil curry, and the spread was the biggest yet, with soup, three sides, a salad, and fresh veggies. The kids waiting on me, even though they didn’t speak English, seemed to like me since I let them see my camera, flashlight, and watch, so the kept giving me more food. I ate till I was stuffed, for 80 cents! I’ve discovered the delicious wonder of Indian sweets since I’ve been here, so I bought a few, restocked my toilet paper supply, then it was off to bed under two blankets, since it will be an early start tomorrow.