Snack lady

I took the train today so I could see the century-old Gokteik Viaduct. Theroux wrote about this in "The Great Railway Bazaar," but when he took the trip in the seventies the country was a mess, with rebels and bandits everywhere. He described the train having a special armored car with gun holes, and a regular car filled with soldiers behind it. It was too hot in the armored car, so if attacked, they would have to get to the armored car before they could shoot back. Now, under the iron fist of the military junta, the country is safe to travel in, and indeed there were several tourists: three Italians who wouldn't talk to me, some girl who wouldn't talk to me, and a weird German guy I had to sit next to who wouldn't talk to me. We did have a car full of soldiers, but they were traveling, and not there for protection.

As usual, the journey proved more interesting than the destination. The aisles were crammed with large sacks and boxes you had to step over, the seats were hard and straight, the train rocked back and forth violently, but we passed some interesting looking towns. When we stopped, interesting looking people rushed to the windows and came on board selling a variety of mysterious snacks. I bought some cookies and what I hoped were chocolate (it's never chocolate here), but they were so greasy they made me sick. Between the towns the landscape was mostly clear cut forest that's now ugly barren hills covered with scraggly brown grasses and shrubs.

The viaduct was big and impressive, as was the gorge it spanned. Unfortunately, the soldiers warned us not to take photos on the bridge, which had M-16 toting guards. All told, it took us six hours to travel the 60 miles to Hsipaw.

Upon arrival, I checked into the Mr. Kidd Guesthouse for $2.50 a night, with en suite. And I could pay in kyats, which makes it even cheaper (usually tourists have to pay in dollars or FEC's). The town's not on the power grid, and they turn the generator off at 9 pm, so I'm writing this holding a flashlight. Guess I'll be going to bed early. I did my laundry in the sink, then went to walk around town, which is very small and rustic. As usual, lots of people said "hello." One kid even shouted "Hello! I love you! Goodbye!" Some guys unloading a truck packed with chickens liked it when I flapped my arms and clucked. The place seems to get a steady trickle of tourists, and it looks like there's maybe 10 or so here. Despite that, it seems like a nice place to spend a couple days.