In Kathmandu's alleys

Saying Kathmandu has a traffic problem is a huge understatement. I rented a bike, and riding it in the overcrowded streets was not fun, since a bike is only above pedestrians in the hierarchy that uses the roads. Bikes are behind rickshaws, motorcycles, tuk tuks, tempos (big tuk tuks), cars, busses, and the undisputed kings of the road, cows. All must yield for the sacred cow, because if you hit one, there will be hell to pay.

The road rules are basically that each vehicle uses its horn to clear a path through lesser vehicles. As a biker you only have a bell, but you must use it constantly to avoid hitting pedestrians. Nobody looks when crossing the street, or pays attention when walking. It’s up to you to let people know you're coming through.

Another reason not to spend time on Kathmandu’s streets is the air quality. I must have inhaled the equivalent of 1,000 cigarettes.

My first stop was Kathmandu’s Durbar (palace) Square, which I eventually found after getting lost, impossible not to do in Kathmandu’s confusing maze of unnamed, narrow streets. I was in no mood to deal with beggars, guides, or “give me chocolate” kids, so I pretty much ignored everyone who approached me.

Must... eat... more...

Then I rode to the ancient city of Patan, which used to be distinct from Kathmandu, but now the two have merged to form a huge metropolis. I stopped at Patan’s Durbar Square, again ignoring the guides and salesmen. A woman asked me if I liked bangles. I told her I like The Bangles. She offered me a special price.

Later, I rendevouzed with the Vagabond, Mike, who I’ll be trekking with. Mike said I looked thin, which is scary, since he met me after I’d already lost at least 15 lbs. Even my efforts to eat three meals a day have not paid off. I’ll have to try to make more of an effort to snack between meals. Curse Asia and its healthy food! We went to Fire & Ice to gorge ourselves on pizza, Guiness, and chocolate cake. It cost me $8, probably the most expensive meal of the trip.