April 12, 2003 Manang, Nepal, 3540 m (11,328 ft)
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From Pisang, there's a high trail parallel to the main one that's about 300 m above it. It also takes about three hours longer. I wanted to take it, to aid acclimatization, and for the views. But none of my companions wanted to, since they are lazy. Luckily, two American girls with massive backpacks were going that way, so I accompanied them.
It was 100 m up to Upper Pisang, then 370 m of steep switchbacks to Ghyaru. Very hard work, and lots of heavy breathing. The views were spectacular, though. Right across the river, and seemingly level with us, were the snow capped peaks of Annapurnas II, II, IV, and Gangapurna, and behind us Pisang Peak. We were truely surrouned by mountains.
We passed through two traditional Tibetan towns, which were quite surreal. Built on hillsides, with boxy little houses reminiscent of the Pueblo Indian houses in New Mexico. We had lunch of dal bhat with a spectacular (of course) mountain backdrop. Jumping down from the platform we were sitting on, I landed wrong, and seemed to hurt my left knee. It felt better after a few minutes, but I favored it all the way to Manang.
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I got to Manang around 5, after eight hours of walking. The rest of the gang had been there since 2. The people of Manang know what trekkers want, so I pigged out on chocolate "Denishes," macaroni, and apple pie.
Even in this remote region, you can't escape the news. Well, Manang's not exactly remote. Everybody I've met on the trail is here, and some people have paid the exorbitant rates to use the satellite internet. So I've heard about the end of the war. The Nepalis seem to do a good job of keeping abreast of the news with their radios.