Kagbeni

In retrospect, the only reason to go over Thorong La is to prove you can do it. There’s nothing to see up there, since there is no vegetation, and nobody lives there. Now, on the other side, is a beautiful green valley, filled with interesting medieval villages. This is why I cam to Nepal, to observe the people, and I’d like to take my time exploring. Unfortunately, my companions, like most trekkers, think we’re done now, and just want to get back to Pokhara ASAP. Yet they refuse to fly back from Jomson. I don’t understand their logic.

So while my companions rushed ahead, I wandered through the little fortress village of Jarakot, spectacularly situated on a hill, with stunning views of the valley. I think the valley is the most beautiful place I ever saw. After finding my way out of the narrow streets, I caught up to my companions. We walked to Kagbeni, a striking medieval fortress town. It was a green oasis in the middle of the desert-like country of Mustang, Nepal’s forbidden kingdom. My companions reluctantly accompanied me to the gompa (monastery). We were lucky, and were in time for a ceremony, which involved eight monks chanting, and performing various rituals. They chanted out of time with each other, sneezed, and talked, and the cacophony produced an earie kind of music. It was fascinating, but unfortunately I had no idea what was going on. And my three companions stormed out after a few minutes.

I wanted to stay in Kagbeni, which was picturesque, but the rest of the group wanted to rush to the ugly city of Jomson. The walk was rough, since we were against the wind. The terrain was ugly too, since we walked on a gravely riverbed.

I’m slightly torn, since I want to take my time, but I have been walking for two weeks. I guess I’ll stick with the group.