Nepali children

I’ve just finished walking for the longest I have, or probably will (20 days is a long time) walk in my life. What did I think of achieving one of my life’s ambitions?

It “wasn’t too bad,” as the English contingent noncomittedly describes most things. But I couldn’t help being disappointed after coming from a place like Myanmar, where the people are actually glad to see you. After 30 years of trekking, the people along the Annapurna circuit are understandably blase. The only time they talk to you are when children are begging for a “school pen,” or when women are trying to extort money from you for their authentic Tibetan souvenirs made in Hong Kong. One such woman actually demanded of poor weak-willed Jamie “You give me 300 rupees now!”

On top of the disappointing people, the views disappointed, which are hazy in the spring. And the crossing of the pass was disappointing, since there is nothing above 4000 m but snow, gravel, hotels, and teashops.

But I’m glad I did it. I proved I can walk for a long time in difficult conditions, and that I can survive the altitude. The mountain views were still good, the Tibetan architecture was interesting, and the beautiful Tibetan people were fascinating to behold. In the future I’d like to do two shorter treks in more remote areas. If you’re going to trek in Nepal, you should consider that too. There’s nothing sacred about the Annapurna Circuit, and 20 days is a long time to walk.

So now I’ll dispel some myths about Trekking in the Himalayas.

It’s cold in Nepal everywhere, all the time
Since Nepal’s at the latitude of Florida, and gets as low as 100 m, it is tropically hot in places. Kathmandu has the ideal climate, and is pleasant year-round. The mountains don’t start getting cold until 2000 m, and even at 5400 m it's amazingly hot in the sun, even while you’re surrounded by snow. I didn’t need a down jacket, and was fine with long underwear top, longsleeve tee shirt, fleece jumper, rainshell, wooly hat, and gloves. Nighttime is when you get cold, and I would say fleece pants are indispensable. You actually don’t need a sleeping bag if you don’t mind sleeping in all your clothes on the dodgy beds. It’s nice, though.

You’ll be living off granola the whole time
You can eat “Mexican,” and “Italian” food at 4500 m. Sure, it’s often best to go with the dal bhat, but the choice is always there. Mars bars, Snickers, and Coke are available everywhere, even on top of Thorong La. The most I paid for a Mars bar was $1, twice the cost in Kathmandu. I ate more candy bars and apple pie than I have ever eaten before, and even the English contingent noted that the amount of tea we drank was excessive.

You’ll be deep in the wilderness and won’t see any people
Sorry, you picked the wrong country. People live up to 4000 m, and you’ll pass through many villages. On the trail you’ll see porters with huge loads strapped to their foreheads, trains of ponies loaded with cargo, sure-footed children on their way to school, families going wherever they go, sadus who have walked on pilgrimage from India, pretty girls washing their hair and spitting hockers, and, of course, your fellow trekkers, many of whom you’ll get to know during your nights in the hotels.

You’ll be sleeping in tents
Some people did pay more money to do this, which I don’t understand. For less than a dollar you can have a dingy little room with dirty sheets, plywood walls, and no heat. Hey, it’s better than nothing!

You’ll be having an “eco-adventure”
I wish more people would think about this. The scourge of mineral water has made it even to the remote hills of Nepal, and many tourists guzzle bottles down without thinking about the fact that the locals have no way of disposing of the plastic bottles, so just throw them in the river. Tourists order complicated meals and take hot showers without thinking about the rampant deforestation they are causing. Tourists hand out candy and pens to kids without thinking about how they're turning them into beggars. Tourists wear skimpy outfits without thinking about how the locals are offended by this kind of dress. Tourists pee close to rivers without thinking how people drink from the rivers. Trekking can be an “eco-experience,” but it’s up to you to make it one.