Pai (pronounced “pie” by hippies, and “bye” by Thais), is indeed incredibly mellow and relaxing, which means I am bored to tears since I’m here by myself.

I rented a mountain bike for $2 (same price as a motorbike, but ever since the incident on Pha Ngan island, I’m staying away from them), and rode out of town. The countryside is nice, but unremarkable. The hills are obscured by smoke from all the slashing and burning, and there are no smiling, waving kids. The tribal villages outside of town, including a Chinese Kuomintang settlement, while still poor, are more well-to-do then their counterparts in Vietnam and Burma, and are boring to look at. Even though I didn’t see anything interesting, the ride was grueling and I worked up a sweat.

Back in town I talked to the trekking agencies, but when I told them I was alone, they told me to come back later. There are no people signing up for treks, and they need four to go. I figured I’d give it another shot in Mae Hong Son.

One guy I met was bragging about how he trekked around Annapurna in Nepal for 25 days and he was having reservations because he didn’t think it would be the same experience. Of course it won’t. But while I don’t expect Annapurna, I am not too keen on it myself. Since all the treks have you stay in villages, the places have become human zoos. I’ve heard the trekking is better in Laos, because tourism is new there. It’s just a matter of time until it is spoiled there too.

My experience here is confirming what I expected. I don’t think I’ll be able to enjoy traveling in Thailand again. For tourists fresh off the plan, Thailand is incredibly strange and exotic. But after you’ve been to places like Cambodia and Burma, Thailand is like “Asia Lite.” Smooth and easy to swallow, but ultimately not as satisfying.