April 11, 2005 Luang Phabang, Laos
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Not much to say about my adventures in Laos, because they’ve been pretty laid back, just like the country. There’s a reason for that: the blazing heat. For most of the day it is simply too hot to do anything, and even sitting in the shade makes the sweat drip. You just don’t want to do anything.
But I fought the urge, and rented a bike to check out some more temples. Some of the temples are beautiful, but I’m surprised at how tiny they are. They are also deserted, and might only have a monk or two lounging about in the shade.
I also looked at the former royal palace, a museum since the communist Pathet Lao seized power and abolished the monarchy. The throne room was impressive, but the king’s bedroom was surprisingly austere.
At night a bunch of people were going somewhere, so I followed them to a part of town I hadn’t been to. A carnival was set up, with dodgy old rides and improvised games. There was also a stage set up with different musical acts. But instead of traditional Lao music, like the concert in Isaan, this one featured amateurish pop acts. I watched for a while, but left when I couldn’t stand the sweat dripping down my back any more when the Lao version of Boys 2 Men came out. It was still an interesting experience, though.
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If you stay in one place for a few days, it’s worth consulting the Lonely Planet for places to eat, because it does feature some real gems you would never find on your own, such as the JoMa Bakery, which has the added bonus of AC, rare in sweltering Laos.
Something I’ve been enjoying here has been snacking. Refrigerated Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups are available here, as are Pringles Cheeze Ums. You can’t get that stuff in Thailand for some reason.
My room is very noisy, with motorbikes, chickens, TV, lizards, and the big mouthed American guy next door. Normally this isn’t a problem, since I always carry a pair of the number one travel accessories with me: ear plugs. But I forgot them this time!

