Eating has been an adventure. Pointing usually works, since I'm willing to eat pretty much anything. But I decided to go to a more "upmarket" restaurant, which had two girls in Chinese dresses standing outside the door for at least eight hours. There was a big sign with pictures, so I walked in, and caused an instant scene. The ten waitresses all came over and tried to help me. I pointed at something and sat down. The place looked like a banquet hall. Sure enough, I got a huge pot of soup that could feed six people. Still, it only cost the equivalent of $2 (five times the cost of a bowl of noodle soup).

Pretty pagoda

Dinner at the monastery was also a fiasco. Everyone else was eating noodle soup, but the monk demanded to know what I wanted. I just wanted soup, but he ordered me to accompany him to the vegetable rack, where I pointed at some vegetables, thinking he would put them in my soup. He must have explained that the veggies were very expensive, since they had to be carried up the mountain, and I agreed to whatever he said. I ended up with enough fried vegetables for three people, and it cost 10 times the price of soup (still, only about $3).

I think all this is because I finally managed to stumble off the backpacker circuit (and onto the Chinese tourist circuit). This is mostly a good thing, since there are hardly any backpackers around. I also feel like people aren't trying to rip me off. But it's sometimes hard, if you don't speak Chinese. Everyone assumes that I do, and I'm missing out on a lot. People ask me directions (they are tourists too) and make small talk. A group of happy nuns even sat down with me and tried to joke around. And people get offended when I don't understand, because they think I'm blowing them off. I'll have to come back when I know some Chinese (a little would go a long way).

I leave for Lhasa in two days...