Pilgrim with a prayer wheel

I woke up at 6 with a demonic, throbbing headache. Not all the aspirin in the world helps. I fought the pain and went to see the Potala, the former residence of the Dali Lamas. It really is stunning, truly an architectural wonder of the world. I could stare at it for hours.

Inside it is depressing. Sure, it is full of some wonderful, priceless religious art. But it is just a museum now, and not a living, breathing part of Tibetan culture. A few pilgrims were frantically running around, making offerings, but most of the visitors were Chinese tourists, twirling their miniature souvenir prayer wheels and taking pictures of each other. There were so many of them crammed into the narrow passages I was rather glad to get out.

Later I went back to the Jokhang. Throngs of pilgrims circumambulate it, but the gates are closed, and the pilgrims prostrate outside them. The Lonely Planet talks about the Jokhang as an active, busy temple. I wonder if it’s still closed for the “liberation celebrations?” Tourists can pay to go in, but I don’t want to see another dead museum.

Watch pilrims circumambulating the Jokhang