While Ganden had a spectacular setting, Shigatse’s Tashilhunpo Monastery had spectacular chapels. Hung with thankas, and crammed full of statues and murals, they were amazing. One of the chapels held the world’s largest gilded statue, a 26 m image of Jampa, the future Buddha. It was awe inspiring.

Monks at Tashilhunpo

Tashilhunpo was the home of the Panchen Lamas, second only to the Dalai Lamas, and influential in identifying the reincarnation of the Dalai Lama. The current Panchen Lama is a boy being held by the Chinese in an undisclosed location, making him the world’s youngest political prisoner. Beijing hopes that by controlling his education they will be able to choose the next Dalai Lama.

I followed some pilgrims through the complex while they made offerings of yak butter and money. The interesting thing about Tibetan Buddhism is that, while the monks have ceremonies, involving chanting and horns, pilgrims don’t really concern themselves with them. The monks do their own thing, and the lay people come and make offerings when it’s convenient for them.

Tomorrow I hope to go to Sakya. What makes Tibet so challenging for independent travelers is the sparse public transportation, and the need for permits for some places. Sakya is such a place. I talked to one guy who didn’t get the permit and made it no problem, and another who paid $20 for a permit, only to not be allowed on the bus. The driver must have feared being fined. I will try it without a permit.