Xi'an's bell tower

Xi’an was the first capital of a unified China. The unifying was done by China’s first Emperor, Qin Shi Huang, from whom the country takes its name. Qin Shi Huang aspired to create the ultimate police state, where his subjects followed him unquestioningly. According the philosophy he ruled by, legalism, he was not just above the law, he was the law. Thus, no free thought could be tolerated. Neighborhood committees watched each other, books were burnt, and scholars were buried alive. He established the idea of an unquestionable central government, which served as a model for Mao Zedong’s ruthless methods and still haunts China to this day.

As capital of China and start of the Silk Road, Xi’an was one of the greatest cities in the world 2000 years ago. Today, like many Chinese cities, Xi’an is clean, modern, and pleasant with no trace of history. Even the ancient walls are new. However, scattered about are some interesting sites: the world class Shaanxi History Museum, the Forest of Steles Museum with its enormous “books” carved into huge slabs of stone, including what must be the world’s heaviest tourist brochure, and the narrow streets, shops, and delicious snacks of the Muslim Quarter with its Great Mosque, built in Chinese style. Then there’s the attraction that makes Xi’an the #2 destination in China, and a must see: the army of Terra Cotta Warriors guarding the tomb of Qin Shi Huang. The Warriors really are remarkable, because of the amazing detail, and the sheer numbers of them, but many travelers walk away disappointed because they expected too much.

Better in person

It goes without saying that the sites were swarming with tourists, both Chinese and foreign. But the tourists get shuttled from site to site then back to their hotels, leaving the city to the Chinese. Walking the streets is a very Chinese experience, and some people looked at me as if they never saw a foreigner before as I ambled about in the cold.

Like most orderly Chinese cities, it’s difficult to find food if you don’t know where to go. There are no vendors on the streets, and the cheap noodle restaurants are confined to the side streets and alleys. I never found the noodle shops in Xi’an, but across from my hostel were stands selling delicious Muslim snacks: meat on a stick, bread, and sandwiches. I put a meal together every night for 10 RMB (about a dollar), and it was some of the best food I had in China.

Now I’ll be taking my last train trip in China, to Beijing. As much as I have enjoyed China, three months is a long time to be on the road. I look forward to seeing Beijing, but I am also counting down the days until I fly home.