For Emperors only

There is so much to see in Beijing I have been running around in the freezing cold trying to see everything: the Forbidden City, some of the temple parks, and the Lama Temple.

The Lama Temple was interesting because it’s the largest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside of Tibet. While the statuary, including the 30 m standing Maitreya Buddha (Buddha of the future), which a plaque from Guinness confusing proclaims may or may not be in the Guinness Book of World Records, are Tibetan, the architecture is thoroughly Chinese. That’s because the place was converted into a lamasery from a palace in 1722 in honor of a visit from the Dalai Lama. The complex is in good shape; a plaque proclaims it survived the “so-called Cultural Revolution unscathed due to the intervention of Zhou Enlai,” who also saved the Potalla Palace in Lhasa. The temple was active, as well as being a tourist attraction, but there were no Tibetans. Those making offerings were all pretty, young Chinese women.

"Great" doesn't do it justice

I’m constantly amazed at the ignorance foreign visitor have about China. To fully appreciate China, which often appears to be a modern, bland metropolis, some knowledge of its history, culture, and language is required, and I don’t have enough of any of those. But most people have absolutely none. As I passed Tiananmen Square, some American women asked me what the big red building with Chairman Mao’s picture on it was.

The majesty of the Forbidden city was diminished only by the fact that it is all outside, requiring me to spend hours in the freezing cold. Afterwards I visited the temple parks behind the complex, so I spent the entire day outside. Thankfully my hostel has a heater.

Another day I walked to the Temple of Heaven, another full day in the cold. The temple was more interesting for watching people exercising, playing mahjong, and playing instruments, rather than for its dilapidated buildings.

Great climb

An aspect of Beijing that I find fascinating is that it’s so Chinese. It’s the capital of a huge country becoming a global power, so I know there are many foreigners here, but outside of the tourist sites I never see them. Even when I ride the subway, I am the only foreigner.

The highlight of Beijing, and perhaps all of China, was the Great Wall. There are several Wall sites around Beijing, some swarming with so many tourists you can’t move. I chose a site far from the city with extremely steep climbs, making it unpopular. That, coupled with the freezing weather meant a deserted Wall in a spectacular mountain setting. The Wall was built along the tops of hills and mountains, so it was remarkable to behold it snaking into the distance. This section had narrow walls, unlike the huge walls you see in pictures, and many sections were in ruins, adding to the charm. But the 10 km hike was strenuous, and a couple sections were rather terrifying, with 100 m climbs practically straight up narrow little steps and nothing to hold on to. Fearing heights, and imagining tumbling backwards into oblivion, I scurried up on all fours. Despite the scary parts, it was a rewarding and exhausting day.