January 08, 2004
After a month at home, the rest of the world seems like just a dream. It’s hard to believe that there are other countries, with different kinds of people doing different kinds of things in them. It’s actually the same everywhere else. For a Thai, Thailand is the whole world, for a Burmese, Burma is the whole world, and for a Nepali, Nepal is the whole world. It really is a small world, but not because of airplanes or the internet. The majority of people simply never leave their home countries, or pay attention to what’s happening outside of them.
Here’s some thoughts on what’s happening inside America.
”Same-Same”
On a trip to Chicago, I was amazed to see the gentrification of America in full effect. I’ve only been to Chicago about a dozen times, but I remember that much of it seemed to be urban blight, wasteland, or “hood.” Now, many dodgy areas have been bull-dozed and replaced with expensive condos and shops, with a Starbuck’s on every corner. Surprisingly, many neighborhoods have been replaced with suburban-style strip-malls, even in the middle of the city, blocks from the Sears Tower. Now, more than ever, America is looking the same wherever you go.
For better or for worse, this seems to be the order of things. I’ve noticed that each of the countries I visited has its own distinctive look. From Thailand’s squat, grimy, concrete shop houses covered with plastic advertising facades, to Nepal’s ancient narrow brick alleys, to Cambodia’s sandy, leafy boulevards lined with wooden huts. America’s look just happens to be huge Mega-Super Wal-Mart centers with massive parking lots.
Inside one of the huge Mega-Super Wal-Mart centers I received a mild shock. You can get most things you might want in Thailand, but if you are looking for something slightly strange, you will have problems. For instance, if you get a hankering for a cream soda, you would be in trouble, as most supermarkets stock standard beverages such as Coke, Pepsi, Sprite (pronounced “Sa-prite”), Quu (you can’t get this tasty Japanese beverage here), or my favorite, Lipton Green Wave Iced Tea. Usually the sodas share an isle with water and other beverages. But at the Wal-Mart, I was amazed to behold an entire huge aisle devoted entirely to soft drinks, including all the esoteric flavors you could ever possibly imagine, such as Clear Wild Prune Pepsi. OK, I made that one up, but you get the idea.
Driving around Chicago, I was surprised at how empty such a large city could seem. Where is everyone? Driving in huge SUV’s to Wal-Mart, I imagine. Even the bustling Michigan Avenue seemed strangely vacant. Where are all the vendors selling fruits, curries, jeans, or anything else you could (but probably don’t) want? Where are the wandering elephants? The blind karaoke beggars? The ubiquitous uniformed university students? And the streets and buildings all looked so clean and polished. At first, Thailand was overwhelming and grimy, but now I am suffering from sterilized sensory depravation. I’m reminded of what I love about Bangkok: no matter the time of day or night, there is always something going on, and there are always lots of people (and perhaps an elephant or two) about.
Super-Size
I’ve been using my time here to indulge in meals I haven’t had in awhile: huge American breakfasts, Mexican food, Indian food, Chicago style pizza, and KFC. Yeah, KFC. The KFC’s in Thailand are awful. Deep-dish pizza at the original Pizzeria Uno’s was a treat. There are plenty of Italian pizzerias in Bangkok, but nowhere to get this delicacy. Pizza Hut stuffed crust does not hold a candle to it. And not a bottle of ketchup in sight (Thais have a disturbing tendency to drown anything that’s not spicy, such as pizza, in ketchup).
Alas, though, American portions truly are big, and I fear I have gained some of the weight I lost back. I had gotten used to Asian portions, which will make you “not hungry,” yet not “full.”