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Origami for what?
December 03, 2004
Bangkok, Thailand

As a foreigner who can’t read local newspapers or understand the TV news, it’s impossible to get a feel for public opinion. Everything seems like it usually is. Except for all the people frantically folding paper cranes. And the paper cranes made out of Thai flags hanging from shops. Paper cranes made out of Thai flags? That doesn’t seem to represent a message of love and caring to a region that resents Bangkok.

This editorial from The Nation illuminates the situation. I wonder what will happen on D-Day this Sunday?

EDITORIAL II: Sometimes loving and caring just aren’t enough

Published on November 30, 2004

People in the country’s southernmost provinces will purportedly be showered with love and sympathy this weekend. At the latest count, more than 20 million origami birds have been folded by their compatriots from around the country, and when they are dropped from the skies on December 5, it will send an unmistakable message of deep concern and caring.

But I’m just not sure whether love and caring are enough. At this crucial juncture, understanding and respect seem a lot more important. The deep South is a wild child at the moment, and every effort to rein this child in appears to have backfired. The carrot has been spurned, and the stick has only served to galvanise him.

The paper birds will rain down on a region feeling isolated, resentful and full of doubt, and the residents can be forgiven if they greet the falling messages of love with cynicism or confusion. After all, those who died in the infamous Tak Bai clampdown are still portrayed as insurgents or, at best, potential rioters who somehow deserved to be punished for being in the wrong place at the wrong time. Few grieve for them except relatives, friends and fellow Muslims. Those who do are branded unpatriotic, and attempts to seek justice for the deaths have all but evaporated.

Young Thai Muslims are being stereotyped as troublemakers being brainwashed to be anti-state, while the suffering of Thai Buddhists has received the greatest attention. The local education system is suspected of breeding future terrorists. The line between being a separatist militant, a sympathiser and simply a southern Thai Muslim has become increasingly blurred.

If only the Thaksin administration could utilise its marketing and persuasive power that triggered the paper-bird frenzy in a more constructive manner. Instead, the indignant region has heard from the highest authorities such comments as “We won’t keep them [troublemakers] to be our fathers”. Generalisations and stereotypes are what the separatists want in order to fulfil their goal, and the on-going campaign of love does little to stem this.

After decades of relatively peaceful co-existence, we have taken a lot of things for granted. Some of our Muslim friends can join us at a lunch or dinner table where pork is served and we assume that all Muslims can handle the same situation. We can take part in Christian weddings and we think Muslims shouldn’t have any trouble participating in non-Islamic rituals. We have so many things other than Buddha statues and amulets to worship that we forget that to our Muslim friends, nothing stands between them and God.

Perhaps ignorance is not to blame. Perhaps the majority of Muslim residents of the deep South have been generally happy as Thai citizens. And perhaps those responsible for the daily killings, occasional bombings and acts of arson are just an unreasonably fanatical movement.

But why have things been deteriorating so fast since the beginning of the year? Why in a matter of months has the separatist issue gone from “they are just a small group of bandits” to something that requires 60 million paper birds to be dropped from the sky?

Is the separatist element really that good and shrewd? Is it so easy to cook up resentment and turn an entire ethnic minority against the state by killing two or three “majority” citizens everyday and by provoking the authorities into responding in kind? Is the state so naive as to fall into such a trap? If the answers are all “no”, then something else must have been seriously wrong long before the eruption of violence early this year.

Nobody knows how many of the Thais who made the paper birds approve the Tak Bai killings. But some messages seen on those folded papers are unsettling. Some were apparently addressed to Thai Buddhists or government troops asking them to “fight on”. Prime Minister Thaksin has made the objective of the campaign more ambiguous by vowing to reward anyone who finds the paper bird bearing his signature.

Ironically, the origami campaign is taking place at a time when the nation is on the verge of splitting into “us” and “them”. Government-controlled television stations have all but glorified the senior military officers responsible for the Tak Bai clampdown. Web boards have been bombarded with eye-for-an-eye messages. Hate letters have been sent to newspapers, senators and academics critical of the protesters’ dubious deaths.

In this kind of environment, the paper birds will have to brave more than winds, storms and rain to get the message of love across to the people of deep South.

Tulsathit Taptim

The Nation

Tulsathit Taptim is managing editor of The Nation.

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Operation Dumbo Drop
December 06, 2004
Bangkok, Thailand

So, D-Day came and went, with no incidents. Peace has not been achieved in the South, but a lot of children had fun, and the attention of the Thai people has been successfully deflected from the Tai Bak killings. It all sort of reflects life in Thailand: every day something insane happens, but life goes on as normal.

Here is the finale from The Nation

PEACE INITIATIVE: Birds bring smiles, laughter

Published on December 06, 2004

Tens of thousands gather to collect paper cranes, read messages of peace and solidarity

Thailand's three crisis-plagued southernmost provinces went into frenzy yesterday as thousands from all walks of life gathered at various locations to snatch origami birds dumped from the sky as part of a government campaign against the ongoing violence that has claimed about 500 lives this year.

Thousands of people, mostly children, gathered at Pattani's city hall, scrambling to snatch up millions of paper birds gliding down from military transport planes, which swooped down to make the drop-off.

For a brief moment, there were smiles and laughter among young and old alike. A sort of collective consciousness developed between those gathered at the designated location in this Muslim-majority region, where rampant violence has taken its toll on local residents and torn into the fabric that holds the Buddhist and Muslim communities together.

Like other provincial seats, in Yala and Narathiwat, downtown Pattani came to a standstill as local residents stopped what they were doing to look up at the sky and watch the military cargo planes circling the sky in preparation for the drop.

Fear of a stampede had officials urging the public through loudspeakers to control themselves as children shoved and pushed one another in an effort to snatch the falling paper birds from the sky. But by day's end, there were no injuries and any stepping on of toes or shoving was forgiven.

About a dozen drops were made in the heart of Pattani, with the first five drop-offs missing their targets and landing at the nearby hospital and city hall.

Some of the birds were blank but many had writing on them. One said the rest of the country "is with you through this difficult time", and another "for the people of the south with love and concern".

There were some practical jokes as well, with one having "Pojaman Shinawatra", the wife of Prime Minister Thaksin, written on one wing and "Bt100,000 reward" on the other.

Social groups were also out in full force. A Tai Chi exercise group gathered at a designated park in downtown Narathiwat to show their moves and Village Scouts sporting their bright yellow outfits gathering to show unity and uniformity.

National television stations were broadcasting live from |various locations in the region, with reporters and cameraman permitted to go on the military flights to take footage of troops pushing out the paper birds.

A group of local Muslim elders at a local teashop said they were indifferent to the campaign, which appeared to many critics as a ploy by Thaksin to put up another pre-election smokescreen around the ongoing violence, for which there is no end in sight.

The day ended with a parade in Pattani in which various schools and government offices marched to a rallying point in the city, followed by a large fireworks display.

In Yala, 20,000 people gathered at the main youth sport field in Muang district to catch the birds.

Many locals were seen carrying umbrellas, which they used in a bid to catch as many of the paper birds as possible. With that simple tool, a person could catch ten birds at a time.

The gathering caused traffic congestion in the area but many of those interviewed by The Nation said they were happy that people in other parts of the country wished to see peace in the South.

Don Pathan

The Nation

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Brrr
December 08, 2004
Bangkok, Thailand

My Thai-style bathroom has an open window, so I keep the door closed. This morning it was actually slightly cool in there, and while in the shower I wished my water heater got the water hotter. What a novel concept, wishing for a hot shower in Bangkok! I wish the weather was like this all year. Walking around at night is so pleasant, and spending time at the beer gardens is nice.

I still get hot walking outside during the day, thought. However, I do not get all sweaty, which is nice for a change.

Next month: the hot season begins!

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The bridge on the River Kwai
December 20, 2004
Bangkok, Thailand

We had a three day weekend, and I had to get out of Bangkok, but I didn’t know where to go. There just aren’t too many good day trips from the city. In a panic, me and my friend Jeremy decided to go to Kanchanaburi. Remember that movie about that bridge on a certain river, where Japanese forced British POW’s to build to build it? Well, that’s where it is.

Unfortunately, the bridge is amazingly underwhelming. It is tiny, and in a bit of historical irony, is now swarming with Japanese tourists armed with expensive cameras. Walking across it was slightly scary, though, because there is nothing stopping you from falling into the river if you trip. On the other side were some stalls selling Burmese jade and money. Nothing to be excited about.

Then we went to the strange “JEATH War Museum,” with badly maintained displays of Japanese soldiers bossing around loincloth-clad POWs. One of the strangest parts was the large diorama of Allied planes bombing the bridge. The Japanese forced POWs to stand on the bridge while it was bombed, and mannequins covered with red pain are strewn in the river, depicting the carnage. Another bit of weirdness was the statues of WWII leaders, where Hitler and Stalin proudly stood next to Roosevelt and Einstein.

Then there was the “World War II” museum, which looks like a Chinese temple. The owners are indeed Chinese, and each floor contains portraits of the family. On the top floor, above pictures of Thai kings, is a huge portrait of the original patriarch in China. There were nice views from the roof, though.

The most beautiful national park in Thailand is supposed to be close to Kanchanaburi. We didn’t see it, though. I guess I’ll have to come back.

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I’m dreaming of a weird Christmas
December 21, 2004
Bangkok, Thailand

Check out my new Christmas in Thailand photo gallery.

Christmas in Bangkok may not be white, but with the cool weather and decorated shopping malls, it is the most pleasant time of year to be here. Walking around outside is possible during the day, and actually pleasurable at night. So I walked around taking pictures of the strange phenomenon of a Buddhist country celebrating a Christian holiday. Of course, There are only Santas, and no nativity scenes.

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Amazing Thailand
December 22, 2004
Bangkok, Thailand

Since this was my first semester here, I assumed I had to teach the subjects listed in the course description of the “Fundamental Math” class I was assigned to teach . Even though I did not study some of the decidedly un-fundamental subjects until graduate school, I assumed I had to stick to the plan. Not surprisingly, the class was way to hard for the lazy, spoiled students, and the average on the midterm was about 50%.

After the midterm only about 20 of the 50 kids came regularly, so I figured the rest dropped out. As a reward for the “diligent” kids who remained, I made the final easy. I just got the results, and it turns out only ten kids dropped the class. So 20 kids just stopped coming, and still took the final. Not surprisingly, the average was even lower, less than 50%.

I wish I could fail most of them, but since this is Thailand, where everything looks perfect and beautiful, everybody has to pass. At least I’ll be able to give quite a few D’s.

But now I know better. The students only care about looking pretty and talking on their cell phones. The administrators only care about having a warm body in front of the class, and the money of the rich students’ families. Since nobody appreciates what I do, why should I exert any effort?

Next semester: we’ll start late (the kids all come late anyways), finish early (they all leave when they feel like it), and have no homework (they are too lazy to do it). I’ll be the most popular teacher here!

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Is it Christmas Eve?
December 24, 2004
Bangkok, Thailand

I’m at work, and I just finished grading exams. At least the Thai students averaged around 50%. Without exception, the dumbest of the dumb are the farang students, who are all completely brain-dead. But as a whole the International College students are all dumber than the average Thai student. We have to tell them where to sit and how to fill in their test forms. Some of them don’t even write their names on their tests.

But the nightmare of grading and proctoring is now over, thank god. I survived proctoring without any incidents this time. Jeremy was not so lucky, though, and engaged in some verbal sparring with an overzealous Thai teacher who was trying to bust him for reading email during an exam.

Next semester will be good and bad. Good because a Thai teacher is in charge of the course, so I won’t have to do any prep. Bad because this course will be even harder than the “Fundamental Math” course I taught this semester. This one is called “Quantitative Methods for Decision Making,” but, should be called “More Random Topics in Math,” because none of the topics go together.

And I don’t know who the Thai teacher thinks she’s kidding, because there is no way the retarded kids will be able to grasp any of the material. I expect them to all stop coming and fail the class. But since failure will be the average, they will all pass. Welcome to Thailand.

Another bad thing is that I don’t actually know anything about half of the topics, so am unqualified to teach the class. What the heck is game theory? But, this is Thailand, so that’s not a problem.

At least I only have to work three days a week, though! The less time I spend here the happier I am.

So, tomorrow’s Christmas. I’m thinking of getting on a bus for Koh Samui, an island in the Gulf of Thailand. So maybe my next post will be from Chaweng Beach.

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